9 days in Dublin and Ireland’s Ancient East
At the head of Dublin Bay and mouth of the River Liffey, lies Dublin. In addition to numerous attractions and nightlife, golfers can enjoy the high concentration of Top 100 GB&I ranked courses within an hour's drive of the city centre.
Whenever we have groups in Ireland it’s an excuse to pack the clubs and jump on the ferry from Scotland to Ireland. This June we took the opportunity to spend 9 days exploring Dublin and the wider area outside the city known as Ireland’s Ancient East. What could be better than hitting the road, meeting fellow golfers, losing a few balls, sinking a few putts and pints of Guinness?
Here are some highlights and recommendations for your next Dublin & Ireland’s Ancient East golf tour.
Dublin - Where to play
Royal Dublin Golf Club
Royal Dublin Golf Club is located on the man-made Bull Island in Dublin Bay, accessed across a narrow wooden bridge from Clontarf; only a 20-30 minute journey from the city centre. Founded in 1885, Royal Dublin plays as a traditional 9 out and 9 back links course designed by H.S Colt - the world famous golf architect from Sunningdale. Over the years the course has hosted Irish Amateur and Irish Opens. Christy O’Connor was Club Professional and had a 57-year association to the club. Most recently in 2023 Royal Dublin completed a bunker renovation program by Clayton, DeVries & Pont to restore much of Colt’s philosophy. We were treated to some of the worst weather conditions but played first off and battled round the course in 25 mph wind and heavy rain. Even in extreme conditions the greens drained and rolled extremely well. Visitors to Royal Dublin receive a complimentary lunch or breakfast voucher which was certainly welcomed!
The Island Golf Club
The Island Golf Club is rated as one of Ireland’s Top 10 Courses and was our favourite links of the trip where we enjoyed 18 holes with Bowe and Billy from Minnesota, USA. Established in 1890 by founding members, known as the Syndicate, looking for new land to golf due to Royal Dublin being closed for the Sabbath Day. The Island is surrounded by water on 3 sides and was originally only accessible by rowing boat from Malahide with a disc system used to signal boatmen. The Club is now accessible by road and only 45 minutes from Dublin. The Island was most recently re-designed in 2019 by Mackenzie & Ebert, primarily to raise the standard of the front 9. After the 4th the holes play inland and there can be the odd blind shot depending on which side of the fairway you hit. The Island has the most impressive dunescapes of any Irish course on the east coast. On the back 9 we particularly enjoyed the long carry required on the picturesque Par 3 13th and the 14th hole which has the narrowest fairway in Ireland!
Although we didn’t fit a round at Portmarnock Golf Club into this trip, we thought it deserved a mention, as it is regularly voted one of Ireland’s Top 5 Courses. Portmarnock is being looked at closely by The R&A to become the Republic of Ireland’s first host course for The Open & Women’s Championships.
Golf Concierge also recommends; Portmarnock Resort & Jameson Golf Links and for an inland course The K Club Palmer North.
Off the course
In Dublin we managed to fit in a tour of Ireland’s oldest university – Trinity College. The 45-minute Trinity Trails guided campus tour is well worth a visit and includes a ticket to see the 9th century Book of Kells, The Library and Brian Boru Harp, which inspired Guinness’s iconic logo. Golf Concierge also recommends; the Irish Immigration Museum, Guinness Storehouse, Jameson Distillery Bow St. and Kilmainham Gaol museum.
Food & Drink
SOLE Seafood & Grill serves the best seafood in Dublin, including delicately smoked salmon from Howth, Dublin Bay prawns and the finest Irish lobsters. For a traditional Irish pub with live music every night, The Celt was one we enjoyed.
Where to stay
For a city centre hotel in Dublin, Golf Concierge recommends The Morgan Hotel, located in the Temple Bar district. This 4* hotel has 168 modern en-suite rooms. Golfers will enjoy the plasma screens playing live sport in the hotel’s 10 Fleet Street Restaurant & Bar and the convenient multi storey car park opposite. For those on a tighter budget or wanting to get away from the city centre buzz, try the 4* Sandymount Hotel in an affluent and welcoming neighbourhood near the Aviva stadium. Guests can hop on the DART train at Lansdowne Station, only a 5-minute walk from the hotel, and be in the city centre in 15 minutes for €2.50.
Ireland’s Ancient East - Where to play
County Louth Golf Club (Baltray)
1 hour North of Dublin through the Boyne Valley takes you to the course where Shane Lowry won the Irish Open as an amateur back in 2009 - County Louth Golf Club (Baltray). The course is generous off the tee and quite wide-open with large greens. County Louth’s signature 3rd hole - The Punchbowl was the highlight of the front 9. On the back 9 the stunning 14th hole (The Cup) featured in Paul McGinley’s Golf's Greatest Holes, an elevated tee with views North to the Mourne mountains requires accuracy. Whilst in this area north of Dublin a couple of other links courses to play include Seapoint Golf Links and Laytown & Bettystown Golf Course.
The European Club
1 hour south of Dublin on Brittas Bay lies The European Club - currently ranked 5th in Ireland by www.top100golfcourses.com. The European Club is not your conveyor belt of member and visitor golf, there is a very limited membership, restricted visitor numbers and no caddies. You might even run into the owner - Pat Ruddy – on the course. His vision has created a tranquil golfing experience and one of the best links courses to be designed in the last 30 years. Our standout hole was the 3rd, a tight but reachable Par 5 playing downhill towards The Irish Sea. We thoroughly enjoyed our round, which is 20 holes (2 additional Par 3s are in play) and received the red-carpet treatment from Patrick and Jerry.
Arklow Golf Club
Whilst in the area we played a round at Arklow Golf Club, founded in 1927. The front 9 plays as a traditional links close to the Irish sea before going inland to some tighter more parkland style holes. If you’re looking for a mature parkland course in the Wicklow mountains look no further than Woodenbridge Golf Club - one of Ireland’s oldest golf clubs. Woodenbridge is well-maintained and plays beside the beautiful Avoca & Aughrim rivers which come into play on no less than 10 holes.
Off the course
Drogheda is an excellent base for playing golf in County Louth on Ireland’s Ancient East. The town was seiged by Oliver Cromwell in 1649 and is the gateway to the Boyne Valley region. We enjoyed the Millmount museum offering historic free tours and fine views over the town and River Boyne.
From Drogheda we would strongly recommend the 15-minute drive to visit Brú na Bóinne (also known as the Boyne Valley Tombs.) This UNESCO World Heritage site is famous for spectacular prehistoric passage tombs. These ceremonial iron age structures are among the most important Neolithic sites in the world and contain the largest collection of megalithic art in Western Europe.
Where to stay - Drogheda
North of Dublin Scholars Townhouse Hotel in Drogheda is owned by the McGowan family and is a popular choice for golfers and tourists. This 4* boutique hotel is extremely welcoming and offers guests and non-residents an excellent bar and restaurant experience, with a focus on Boyne Valley region sourced ingredients. The most traditional Irish pub we found in Drogheda was Clarkes Bar with snug wooden booths and benches.
Where to stay - Wicklow
20 minutes from The European Club outside the town of Wicklow for those seeking a step back in time we recommend Tinakilly Country House. Set in 14 acres of gardens, this 4* award winning country house is steeped in history and oozes charm and sophistication.
Off the beaten track, in the Wicklow Mountains, but still just over 1 hour from Dublin is BrookLodge & Macreddin Village. Extensive facilities include 86 luxurious bedrooms, organic bakery and smokehouse, Actons Country Pub, Waterside Lounge, La Tavernia Italian Cuisine and The Wells Spa – an adult only destination Spa. There is a stay/play option so golfers can enjoy playing the first Paul McGinley’s designed course. Wicklow County is known as “The Garden of Ireland” and one of the lushest parkland courses you will find is Druids Glen, which re-opened in 2023 after significant investment, firmly putting this resort back on the map.
Summary - Dublin & Ireland's Ancient East
Dublin is a wonderful city base for golfers. After holing out at Royal Dublin’s 18th, golfers can tour Trinity College and the Guinness Storehouse in the afternoon. Concierge recommends taking time to explore more courses on Ireland’s Ancient East within close proximity to Dublin. The Island, European Club and County Louth are worthy additions to any Irish tour and you’ll be able to combine your trip with visits to world heritage sites or areas of outstanding natural beauty. With more than 30 million visitors passing through Dublin airport every year and direct connections to North America and the rest of world; Dublin and Ireland’s Ancient East is an action packed destination ready for your next golf tour.
